La Dolce Vita: A Toast to the "Sweet Life"

When famed Houston restaurateur Damian Mandola began considering a move to the Texas Hill Country a few years ago, his goal was not to find a suitable place to raise grapes - but rather to raise a family. In the end, he found both.

For some 20 years, Damian Mandola had overseen virtually every aspect of the Carrabba's Italian Grill restaurants, working alongside partner and nephew Johnny Carrabba. Since the first restaurant was founded in 1986 on Houston's bustling Kirby Lane, the business had grown into a virtual food empire of 11 locations, a PBS cooking series, books and cooking schools.

But by 2002, the Houston native was married, and a son was on the way. Although Mandola and wife Trina had thrived in the fast-paced urban lifestyle, they weren't convinced it was the ideal setting in which to raise children.

Finding a New Home
"We were both born and raised in the Houston area, and had started looking at places there, but we weren't sure that was where we wanted to raise a family," says Trina. "We were tired of the traffic and just wanted something quieter."

Having sold his interests in nine of the 11 Carrabba's restaurants to Outback Steakhouse, Mandola's daily Houston business demands were lessened. "I was at a point in my career where my business was established; I had a good partner, and that offered us flexibility," says Damian. "Trina had always loved Austin, so we started looking in the area and fell in love with it."

A family friend put the two in touch with an Austin-area Realtor, who showed them properties in Marble Falls and Angel Bay on Lake Travis. But it was a 375-acre tract tucked into the rolling hills at Driftwood that ultimately caught their eye. By November 2003, the couple had pulled up Houston roots and resettled into the quiet and solitude of their country property.

From City to Country: Making Adjustments
Accustomed to the convenience and hustle of big-city living, the Mandolas admit that adjusting to a country lifestyle was, well, an adjustment. "Our friends thought we'd never make it here," laughs Trina. "And there was a long adjustment period. At first I missed the shopping, but I soon realized that I didn't need the fancy clothes and Gucci shoes here - that I could really relax and be comfortable."

The lack of corner conveniences took some getting used to, as well. "There's no Chinese food delivery out here, and nothing is just around the corner," laughs Damian. "To go to the grocery store is 20 minutes. You learn to call home to see if anything is needed before heading home."

Getting Involved in the Local Community
For others who may be considering a move like theirs, the Mandolas say getting involved in the community is key to feeling at home. Trina met local moms at her son's swim lessons and has enrolled him in a local preschool, where she plans to stay involved. They are supporting area community events, like the recent fundraiser for Save Blue Hole, the popular Cypress Creek swimming hole. But, cautions Trina, "It takes time to get involved. It's not like we are a neighborhood where you can walk out your door and meet people."

New Home, New Business Opportunities
Though a quieter lifestyle may have been their original goal in moving to the Hill Country, it didn't take long for the entrepreneur in Damian Mandola to see new business opportunity in the new surroundings - and one that would fulfill a lifelong dream.

"I've thought for years about having a vineyard, and this property is an ideal location," says Mandola, noting its proximity to Austin and the popular Texas Wine Trail dotted with award-winning vineyards and wineries. With partners Drs. Stan and Lisa Duchman of Houston, the Mandolas embarked on a multiphase venture that by next spring will include a 25-acre vineyard; an 18,000-square-foot wine production facility with wine cellar, bottling and storage areas; and a 10,000-square-foot wine-tasting room, gift shop and restaurant.

Forming a Business Plan
To manage the operation, they secured the talents of enologist and viticulturist Mark Penna, a Texas A&M University horticulture alumnus with more than 20 years of experience. "When Damian Mandola sets his mind to do something, he does it," says Mark Rutledge, Austin credit office president with Capital Farm Credit, which is financing the operation. "When I first met him, he was wearing a chef's top hat and chef's uniform, in the kitchen making mocha coffee and the most wonderful apple pie you've ever tasted. He's a bigger-than-life type person, very engaging and fun. I wasn't sure he wanted to commit the level of work an operation like this would demand, but I was sure he made a fantastic apple pie.

"But the second time we met, it was all business. Damian had already found the vintner, had a business plan, had done the research and was serious about getting started," Rutledge says.

Innovative Financing for Complex Needs
Capital Farm Credit structured an innovative financing package to meet the complex start-up needs of the business. Two production loans funded necessary infrastructure, including well, electricity, trellises and high fencing, in addition to the winery production equipment and the vines. Ten acres of traditional Italian Tuscany varieties - including Sangiovese, Barbera, Moscato and Motepulciano d'Abruzzo - were hand-planted in the spring of 2005. They will be due for their first harvest in 2007.

In the meantime, the winery already has pressed its first 5¾ tons of Shiraz grapes, purchased primarily from nearby Driftwood Vineyards. Plans are to plant another 15 acres next April, about the same time the wine-tasting room and restaurant are slated for opening, funded through a Farm Credit real estate construction loan. An operating line of credit will cover the winery's ongoing labor, inventory and general operating needs.

"The previous owner who sold us the property knew Mark Rutledge and put us in touch with him," recalls Mandola. "The minute we got together with him, we knew it was the right fit. He and Mark Penna were talking the same language - yields, inputs. We didn't go to any other lender - we didn't need to."

Article by Sue Durio
Photos by Jim Lincoln
Article and photos published in Landscapes magazine, November 2005